Pro Titanium Blackening Setup Guide | Hoback Customs

My Pro Setup: Titanium Blackening

This is the *other* big secret. This guide shows how I get a durable, dark gunmetal or charcoal finish on titanium. This is a high-voltage process, so read the safety warning.

"Hey guys, Jake here. This isn't like color anodizing. We're using a different chemical (Manganese Sulfate), *tap water*, and high voltage to get this finish. The *real* secret, though, isn't the chemical—it's the surface prep. This is how you get those durable, *authentic* finishes that don't flake off. I'm laying it all out here to show the level of detail we get into in the Masterclass."

CRITICAL SAFETY WARNING

This process is **MORE DANGEROUS** than color anodizing.
1. You are using **HIGH VOLTAGE** (50-80V), which can be lethal.
2. This process creates **FLAMMABLE HYDROGEN GAS**. You MUST do this in a well-ventilated area, away from any open flames, sparks, or heating elements (like a water heater).
Always wear nitrile gloves and eye protection. I am not responsible for any injury. This is for professional, informational use.

The Process: Step-by-Step

  1. Clean & Prep Your Part: This is 90% of the work. The finish *must* have "tooth" for the blackening to adhere. See the prep chart below. A polished part will *not* work; the finish will flake off.
  2. Mix the Solution: Fill your 1-gallon tank with **warm tap water** (not distilled). Slowly stir in your Manganese Sulfate (about a cup, or until no more will dissolve). You want a saturated solution.
    3. Setup showing the narrow 1-gallon tank with a copper plate inside, ready for the blackening solution.
  3. Set Up the Tank: Attach your CATHODE (-) lead to your copper plate and place it inside the tank. Attach your ANODE (+) lead to your titanium hook/wire.
  4. Blacken the Part: Make sure your part is 100% clean (use Acetone/Simple Green). Dip it in the solution (on its hook). Turn on the power supply and ramp up the voltage. You're going high, around **50V - 80V**. You will see it "cook" and bubble aggressively. This is very fast (30-60 seconds).

The Key: Surface Prep Chart

This is the most important part. If your prep is wrong, the finish will flake off. You *must* have a blasted surface with "tooth" for the finish to grab onto.

Surface Prep Final Blackened Result
Sand Blast (e.g., 100 grit Al. Oxide) **Dark, Flat Charcoal Black.** This is the darkest, most durable finish. This is my go-to for a non-reflective, tactical look.
Bead Blast (Glass) **Gunmetal Black.** A deep, rich black/grey with a slight "satin" sheen. A very clean, professional look.
Satin / Hand-Rubbed WILL NOT WORK. The finish has no "tooth" and will be splotchy, uneven, and will flake or rub off.
Mirror Polish WILL NOT WORK. This is the worst prep for this process. The finish will not adhere at all.

The Blackening List

  • H2O Tank: A 1-gallon, narrow plastic tank.
  • The Electrolyte: Manganese Sulfate.
  • DC Lab Power Supply: High Voltage is required. 0-120V (or 0-200V) and 10+ Amps is ideal.
  • Anode/Cathode Leads: Standard alligator clip leads.
  • Cathode Plate (-): A sheet of Copper.
  • Anode Hooks (+): Titanium wire to hold your parts.
  • Safety Gear: Nitrile gloves, eye protection, and **GOOD VENTILATION**.
Supplies for titanium blackening: Manganese Sulfate, a high-voltage DC power supply, and leads.

Want the Full Process?

This guide gets you started. In the Hoback Masterclass, I have an in-depth video showing this entire process, including how to prep the parts, my exact voltage/time, and how to "seal" the finish afterward.

Join the Masterclass Waitlist