Pro Titanium Color Anodizing Setup & Voltage Chart | Hoback Customs
My Pro Setup: Titanium Color Anodizing
This is one of the most-asked questions I get. Here is my exact, no-fluff shopping list and guide for getting consistent, professional-grade color anodizing on your titanium parts.
"Hey guys, Jake here. I've spent years refining this process. Getting good color isn't magic, it's about control and consistency. This is the exact setup I use in the shop. It's safe, repeatable, and gives you pro results. I'm sharing it here because this is the kind of foundational skill we build on in the Masterclass. Pay attention to the details on the finishes and surface prep."
The Process: Step-by-Step
- Clean Your Parts: This is the most important step. Any oil or fingerprint will ruin the finish. I recommend cleaning with Acetone, then a final wash with Simple Green or dish soap and water. Do not touch the parts with bare hands after this.
- Mix the Solution: Fill your tank with 3-5 gallons of *distilled* water (not tap water). Mix in your Tri Sodium Phosphate (TSP) until dissolved. A good starting point is about 1 tablespoon per gallon.
- Set Up the Tank: Attach your CATHODE (-) lead to your copper or titanium plate and place it inside the tank, against one side. Attach your ANODE (+) lead to your titanium hook/wire.
- Anodize! Turn your power supply on with the voltage at 0. Dip your part (on its hook) into the solution, making sure it doesn't touch the cathode plate. Now, *slowly* raise the voltage. You will see the colors change as you go up. Stop when you hit the color you want.
Jake's Pro-Tips: Voltage Chart
This is the first key. Voltage equals color. The higher the voltage, the thicker the oxide layer, which changes how light refracts. Here is my reference chart. Your results may vary slightly, but this will get you 99% of the way there.
| Color Swatch | Voltage (Approx.) | Color |
|---|---|---|
| 18-22V | Bronze / Brown | |
| 25-28V | Dark Blue / Purple | |
| 30-35V | Light Blue | |
| 45-55V | Yellow / Gold | |
| 75-80V | Teal / Cyan | |
| 85-95V | Green | |
| 100-110V | Pink / Magenta |
Pro-Tip on Power: The reason I recommend a 10-20 Amp supply (vs. a tiny 1-2 Amp one) is *consistency*. A stronger supply can handle the initial current draw for larger parts (like full handles) without the voltage sagging, giving you a smooth, even color instead of splotches.
How Surface Finish Affects Color
This is the *other* key. Voltage is only half the story. The color you get is 100% dependent on how the surface is prepped. A polished surface reflects light differently than a matte one. This is how you get *character*.
| Surface Prep | Final Color Result |
|---|---|
| Mirror Polish | Extremely bright, vibrant, and iridescent. Colors are like a high-gloss, wet paint. |
| Satin / Hand-Rubbed | Bright, but with a "grain." The color will shift and shimmer depending on the angle you hold it. |
| Bead Blast (Glass) | Soft, smooth, and matte. The colors are less "shiny" and more of a deep, flat, even color. Very clean look. |
| Stonewashed / Tumbled | Hides scratches well. The color will be "broken up" by the pattern of the tumble. Great for a working finish. |
| Sand Blast (Abrasive) | Very flat, dark, and muted. The rough texture diffuses light, making colors appear darker and less vibrant. |
My Go-To Finish: For a clean, durable, professional finish, I often use a bead blast *followed* by a light stonewash. This gives a great, even matte color that hides future wear and tear. This is the workhorse finish we use on many knives.
The Shopping List
- H2O Tank: A simple 3-5 gallon plastic tank or bucket.
- The Electrolyte: Tri Sodium Phosphate (TSP). You can find this at any hardware store.
- DC Lab Power Supply: This is the key. Get one that goes from 0-120V. A 10-Amp minimum is good, 20-Amps is better for big parts.
- Anode/Cathode Leads: Simple alligator clip leads. Red for positive (Anode), Black for negative (Cathode).
- Cathode Plate (-): A sheet of copper or titanium. The bigger, the better. It just needs to be submerged.
- Anode Hooks (+): Titanium hooks or wire to hold your parts. You can make these from titanium welding wire. *Do not use steel.*
- Safety Gear: Nitrile gloves and eye protection. Always.
Want to See This in Action?
This guide is just the beginning. In the Masterclass, I show you *how* I use this setup in real-time, including my advanced techniques for multi-color finishes, masking, and troubleshooting splotchy results.
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