Signature "Fallout Finish" Steel Guide | Hoback Customs

My Signature "Fallout Finish" Guide

People ask about this finish all the time. It’s my go-to for a clean, rugged, working finish that hides wear. Here's how I do it.

"Hey guys, Jake here. The 'Fallout Finish' is a two-step process: a chemical etch followed by a heavy stonewash. But the *real* secret is choosing the *right chemical* for the job. This is what separates a pro finish from a hobby one. I'm sharing it to show the kind of real-world, *authentic* processes we use in the shop. This is what the Masterclass is all about—not just the 'what,' but the 'why' and 'how'."

CRITICAL SAFETY WARNING: CHEMICALS

You are working with **Ferric Chloride (acid)** or **Caswell Blackener**. Both require respect.
1. Always wear **chemical-resistant gloves** and **eye protection**.
2. Work in a **well-ventilated area** (outdoors or under a fume hood).
3. Have your **neutralizer (Windex or TSP/water) ready *before* you start.**

The "Fallout Finish" Process

  1. Prep is Key: You *must* start with a clean, evenly-textured surface. I use a **bead blast (glass)** or a **sand blast (abrasive)**. A polished or satin finish won't create the "Fallout" look. Clean the blade 100% with Acetone or Simple Green.
    2. Clean, blasted blade ready for etching
  2. The Etch / Blacken: Choose your chemical (see pro-tip below). Submerge the clean blade.
    • **Ferric Chloride (1:3 mix):** 3-10 minutes.
    • **Caswell Stainless Blackener:** Follow bottle instructions (usually a dip or wipe-on).
  3. Neutralize Immediately: Pull the blade out (with gloves!) and immediately spray it down with Windex (which contains ammonia) or submerge it in a TSP/water bath. This instantly stops the chemical reaction. Rinse thoroughly with clean water and dry.
  4. The "Fallout" Tumble: This is the final step. Put the now-darkened blade into your tumbler with your ceramic media. Run it for a very short time: **only 30 seconds to 1 minute.**
  5. Pro-Tip on Tumbling: The "Fallout" tumble is *only* for contrast. You're just knocking the black off the high spots. Any *real* tumbling for deburring or breaking edges should happen *before* you do the acid etch.
  6. Clean & Oil: Remove the blade, rinse it, and dry it completely (an air compressor is great for this). You'll see the dark finish in the "valleys" and the bright, tumbled finish on the "peaks." Oil the blade immediately to prevent flash rust and deepen the darks.

Pro-Tip: Choosing Your Etchant

This is the *real* pro-level decision. Both chemicals darken the steel, but they give very different results. Here's my breakdown:

Ferric Chloride

Result: A deep **charcoal grey**. This is an acid, so it *eats* the steel, creating a deep, micro-etched texture.

Best Use Case: Great for blades where you *want* that deep, toothy etch. I use this when I'm not worried about tight tolerances.

Caswell Stainless Blackener

Result: A true, deep **black**. This is a black oxide solution, not an acid. It *converts* the surface but doesn't eat the steel.

Best Use Case: **This is my choice for folders.** It doesn't change critical tolerances (like the detent track or lock face), which means you need **less aggressive masking** during the process. It gives you a beautiful black finish while keeping the action perfect.

Pro-Tip on Temperature: Keep your etchant at room temperature or above. The warmer the chemical, the better and faster it works for consistent finishes. For really consistent results, I'll even pre-warm the steel slightly with a heat gun before dipping it.

Close-up of finished Fallout texture

The Shopping List

  • Etchant (Choose One):
    • Ferric Chloride
    • Caswell Stainless Blackener
  • Chemical Container: A tall, narrow plastic or PVC container.
  • Neutralizer: A spray bottle of Windex (with ammonia) or a bath of TSP/Baking Soda and water.
  • Tumbler: A rotary or vibratory tumbler (like from Harbor Freight).
  • Tumbling Media: Ceramic media (angle-cut triangles are a good all-purpose choice).
  • Safety Gear: Chemical-resistant gloves, eye protection, and **GOOD VENTILATION**.
Ferric Chloride, Caswell Blackener, and ceramic media

Ready to Master Your Finishes?

This is my go-to working finish. In the Masterclass, I show you *live* video of this whole process, including my tumbler setups, media types, and how to get different effects and darkness levels.

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